Skin Cycling

Exploring the latest skincare trend, what is it, where did it come from, and does it hold any merit? 

Photography: Sharon Pittaway, Unsplash

No matter how long the night, it's safe to say most of us know better than to commit the cardinal sin of sleeping with our makeup on. But these days, that isn't the only skincare rule to live by, and with the influx of products on the market, the simple 'cleanse, tone and moisturise’ has become a distant memory. Amidst all the noise, how can we ensure our clients use the ingredients they need while keeping their skincare routines simple enough that they actually follow them?  

If you haven't already caught wind of the recent skincare trend taking social media by storm, allow us to introduce skin cycling. Skin cycling is a method of applying skincare over a four-night schedule that alternates between the use of active ingredients and letting the skin recover. The routine streamlines your regimen and reduces potential inflammation or reaction from active ingredients. The method has surpassed 3.5 billion views on TikTok alone, and by the time this issue hits print, one can only assume this will have reached an even more eye-boggling number. 

The creator of this viral method is board-certified dermatologist Whitney Bowe, MD. Dr Bowe calls skin cycling a ‘less is more’ approach and explains it's about "being thoughtful and deliberate about your skincare routine.” Key to the method are exfoliants and retinol. However, when it comes to skincare, too much of a good thing is possible. And there lies the beauty of Dr Bowe's approach, recovery. "I've treated thousands of patients for over a decade as a dermatologist", says Bowe, "and I find that one of the top mistakes people make when it comes to their skin is that they don't build in nights for their skin barrier to recover.” She likens the approach to that of a workout, "your muscles need recovery days, your mind needs recovery days, so it makes sense that your skin also benefits from recovery days.” 

“When it comes to skincare, too much of a good thing is possible. And there lies the beauty of Dr Bowe's approach, recovery”

So let's cut to the chase. What are the steps? Night one: Carry out your regular skincare routine, but use an exfoliant instead of any strong actives. Bowe recommends using a chemical exfoliant over a harsh physical scrub to give glow and prep your skin for the following night. Night two: Retinoid time, use this in place of the exfoliant. After that, you'll take two nights off before repeating the cycle. Easy right? Bowe goes into greater detail on her website, explaining, "on recovery nights, you want to focus on nourishing your skin microbiome and repairing your skin barrier—think hydration and moisture."

A method which simplifies your routine, increases product efficiency, improves skin health and decreases the risk of irritation couldn't get any better. Or could it? Another calling card of the method is that while it provides firm boundaries, it can be easily adjusted to suit any skin type. The exfoliator on night one, for example, can contain acids such as AHA for dry skin, or BHA for oily or acne-prone skin.

Yes, Bowe had a very clever way of introducing her method to the masses, but from the overwhelmingly positive results so many are claiming, it's an equally intelligent skincare trend that seems to hold real merit. 

Words by Brooke Duder